Mustache Wax cast in silicone ice cube tray

A Frankincense Mustache Wax Recipe

Waxing Warmly Over Mustaches

A Recipe and instructions for making your own Frankincense based  Mustache Wax

Here’s a basic recipe for a “solid” mustache wax that is based around Frankincense Frereana that you can make at home.
The quantities are only approximations as each mustache requires a different consistency depending on thickness, hardness, density and length of mustache hair..

  • 1-one pound brick of natural unbleached Beeswax.

    English: Description: beeswax Deutsch: Beschre...

    English: Description: beeswax Deutsch: Beschreibung: Bienenwachs (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

  • 50 to 75 Grams Cocoa or Shea Butter
  • 100 Grams fresh Frankincense Frereana oleo resin. I find these saps not only keep the hairs together, but help “train” a mustache to a new form. (And of course smell great!).
  • 100-150 ML. Extra virgin and cold pressed Olive oil, which is full of nutrients for the hair and keeps very well.One can replace the extra virgin olive Oil with any other animal or vegetable oil. Each will add its unique qualities.
  • 5-10 ML. essential oils.

    Pitch Pine Sap , Pine Barrens N.J.

    Pitch Pine Sap , Pine Barrens N.J. (Photo credit: harmonica pete)

Make a “Bain Marie” (named after a famous female Alchemist), also called a water bath. OK Lets just call it a double boiler!

To make a double boiler take a large pot, (10-30 liters), fill it 1/3 with cold water, place it on the stove. Before you turn on the heat find some containers that you can dedicate to making mustache wax glass or metal cylindrical vessels you can afford to not use in the future for anything else. Straight walled glass Mason or preserving jars work well especially the 1/2 liter and 1 liter size. Taller than they are wide. You need to stand at least 3 containers in your double boiler. One for mixing your product, (mustache wax), one for cocoa butter, and one for sap/oil.

Double Boiler

Simple Double Boiler

If using glass jars or mason jars it’s wise to put a low rack, grate or mesh on the bottom of the pot so that the glass isn’t in direct contact with it, heat up too quickly and crack. Marbles work equally well distributing the heat. Anything that’s going to raise your jars above the bottom of the pot and allow the hottest water to circulate.

  • Fill one jar with the beeswax. Grate, chop or break it if needed so it fits through the neck of your jar.
  • Clean your collected sap, ( or saps), removing as much of the bark as you can. Put it in one of the jars then add your olive oil to the sap. (The oil acts as a solvent and will help you clean up any stickiness when you are done.)
  • In your next jar put chunks or grated Cocoa or Shea Butter
  • Put your filled jars in the cold water,

If they stand freely, support each other and don’t fall over or float away, great. If they are not stable and well supported, clamp each one to the side of the pot using a spring clamp, clothes pin or whatever works. Even if you have an “extra” jar filled with marbles, water or anything else that will keep it from floating, but supports the others, it’s better than having your jars falling over and spilling their contents in the water.

  • Add enough water to the pot so it is a little higher than the materials in the jars but at the same time not so close to the lip of the pot or the jars that it will bubble over when it reaches the boiling point.

When the water warms the contents of the jars will start melting.

  • Once the water is boiling use a stick or spoon and stir your oil/sap mix until the sap will not dissolve any further into the oil. Then filter into a jar of the same size,separating the undissolved and foreign particles. I use a conical mesh paint filter, metal mesh coffee filter or a nylon stocking in a funnel, pressing the nylon stocking. Please be careful not to burn yourself! You can compost the sap residue or return it to the earth.

It is important to bring all your ingredients to the same temperature before mixing them!

This is especially true when trying to incorporate waxes such as Cocoa Butter homogeneously.

  • Pour half your Beeswax into your oil/sap mixture and reserve the rest for adjusting later. You can also use a metal baster to transfer your liquids from one jar to another, eliminating the need to remove hot jars from the bath.
  • Add the cocoa butter, stir again and keep stirring until it blends completely in the sap/oil beeswax mix. Again, reserve some and use it to fine tune to your satisfaction.
  • Take some of your mustache wax mix and put a few drops on a plate at room temperature. Once these drops cool you’ll be able to tell if you need to add more beeswax and make it harder or add more sap or cocoa butter to make your mix softer or smoother. If for some reason you find you have used up all your oils, saps and butters and your Mustache wax is still too hard, you can heat up more Cocoa or Shea Butter, or simply heat up some olive or vegetable oil in one of your empty water-bath jars, and add it in increments till you have the consistency you want. You can play around with the proportions and with different butters, waxes and oils. Nothing is written in stone. You are making a product that is tailored to your personal needs. Remember you can always heat it up in a double boiler at a later date and make more adjustments.

KEEP NOTES!!

A whole other world to explore, if you have the time and inclination, is the world of natural perfume. Mainly the vast selection of plant and animal derived fragrance materials such as essential oils, absolutes and tinctures. We have enriched our lives with natural fragrances for many thousands of years.The combinations that one can create are endless, making it a rewarding path to explore and express oneself.

Some traditional “masculine” essential oils

  • Woody: Juniper, Cypress, Pine, Spruce, Fir, Sandalwood, all the Cedars.
  • Balsamic; (Warm Amber like tones). Benzoin, Peru Balsam, Labdanum, Tolu Balsam, Frankincense, Myrrh,
  • Earthy: Patchouli, Spikenard,Vetiver
  • Spicy: Clove, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Bay Leaf, Black Pepper, Ginger etc.
  • Citrus: Orange, Lemon,Tangerine, Bergamot, Litsea Cubeba etc.
  • Floral: Ylang Ylang, Carnation, Neroli,

Aim for a minimum of 2% essential oils for fragrance. This means that if your end product will be 500 ML. You would aim to have at least 10 ML. of essential oils in it. Keep in mind that some essential oils can irritate the skin and the eyes, use a light hand with them. (5% max??)

KEEP NOTES!!
Once your mustache wax has the right consistency you can take it out of the water bath. As it cools down, stir in your essential oils, adjust the fragrance to your liking while it is still in liquid form and keep in mind that the hot wax will accelerate evaporation of the volatile oils, so your mustache wax will smell much more potent than it will when it is cool.
Once your essential oils are mixed in, pour your mustache wax into containers or molds.

I like to use little silicone dome shaped ice cube trays. I find they are the perfect size for mustache wax. Enough for about one month of mustache twirling for me.They pop out of the molds easily when cool and keep their shape.

These are the basics. The rest is up to you. Feel free to improvise with different waxes, oils, saps and essential oils. Play, experiment and have fun.

If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment.
Celebrate the gender you were given this time round, be creative and explore the wonderful gifts of Nature that surround us.

Dan

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